FULL PAGE INTERVIEW: BELFAST TELEGRAPH
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From Belfast to Ibiza via London: the life of NI designer Riona Treacy
Riona Treacy on establishing a reputation for quality. Pictured with daughter Naoise.
By Lorraine Wylie
Worth an estimated £26 billion, fashion is the UK’s largest creative industry. It’s also an overcrowded market where competition is stiff. But, in 2009, when young designer Riona Treacy left her home in Northern Ireland and headed for London, known as the mecca of fashion, she was determined to find success.
Fast forward 13 years and the former Rathmore Grammar School student has realised her dream. Since the launch of her Riona Treacy label in 2012, the Belfast woman has established a reputation for designs that are hallmarked by quality, beauty and, that much sought-after but often elusive ingredient — comfort.
However, like most businesses, ‘Riona Treacy’ hasn’t escaped the challenges of the pandemic. Now based in Ibiza, Riona reflects on her success, the inspiration behind her designs and why, for her, Covid restrictions proved a blessing in disguise.
“I was always drawn to art and design,” she says. “But I think sewing is in the family DNA. My great-grandmother as well as my grandmother were both talented seamstresses and made all their own clothes as well as things for the house.
“As a child I loved spending time at my grandmother’s house. We’d spend hours in her little ‘sewing room’ where she’d teach me about fabrics and how to sew.” Inspired by her grandmother, Riona launched her first ‘collection’. “I decided I’d give the tooth fairy’s wardrobe a makeover,” she laughs.
“I gathered little scraps of fabric as well as flower petals from the garden and set about making the tiny outfits. I wasn’t sure about exact measurements, but I reckoned, a fairy’s leg was probably the length of my finger, so I used that as a guide.
“Of course, it was all very secret, so I didn’t tell anyone what I was doing. I slipped the parcel of tiny outfits under my pillow, barely able to sleep as I imagined the fairy’s excitement at discovering her new clothes. When I awoke to find the parcel still there, it was so disappointing. The tooth fairy didn’t like my ‘collection’.”
Undeterred Riona continued to pursue her dream and, following graduation she moved to London where she studied among fashion icons like Alexander McQueen and Mary Katrantzou.
“Initially, I was working as a bespoke designer and all my garments were geared to evening wear. But, personally, I prefer a more causal style.
“Then in 2012, I launched my own label and loved how I could create an outfit that is both stylish and comfortable. It’s amazing how by simply adding heels, an outfit can be transformed from daytime casual to something quite glamorous and suitable for a night out.”
Beautiful fabrics paired with elegant designs have been a brand trademark. But it’s their hand-dying techniques that makes Riona Treacy prints stand out.
“Shibori is an ancient Japanese method of hand-dyeing. There are different styles but the one I particularly like is a tie-dye that uses apparatus such as blocks of wood or a piece of string wrapped around the fabric to create different patterns.
“For example, my Neoprene dresses which are a best-seller are all hand-dyed, so no two are the same. That’s just the nature of the dye. I use silk dyes as opposed to Indigo which is a natural dye that can only be used on natural fibres and tends to wash out.” The business has gone from strength to strength but, in 2020, Covid hit.
“When Covid arrived, we had lots of orders pending. We were really busy and although I was pregnant with our first child, I’d planned on working without taking maternity leave.
“Unfortunately, all our orders had to be cancelled and I was forced to stop work. However, this proved a blessing in disguise. I was able to take time out, relax and focus on becoming a mum. I was also able to think about the business and what changes we should make going forward.”
Now, mum to a beautiful daughter called Naoise, Riona and her family, decided to move to Spain.
“We live in Ibiza although we still distribute from London,” she explains. “Being able to ship from Spain makes things easier with Brexit and our European customers.”
The move has also influenced Riona Treacy designs. “The climate here is so different to London, much more humid and a lot hotter. So, we are changing many of our fabrics to be 100% natural. We’re also working on a resort line and possibly a small line of children’s clothes.”
Where does she find inspiration? “I love people watching. I love to see women of all ages going about their business in an outfit they’ve chosen to be comfortable in all day. I’m also constantly inspired by nature and the landscape here is just incredible. The colours of the water and the sky simply inspire me.”
What’s on trend for this year’s fashion gurus? “Colours are bright and juicy.” she says. “It’s a very 90s aesthetics so the look is loud and playful. Co-ed sets are really wearable as they work for both day and night-time. “We always include some co-ed sets in our collection as they are very versatile. Obviously, as well as a set, they can also be worn separately.”
Her debut collection may have been ditched by the tooth fairy but, fashion gurus at the London Fashion Week 2019, got it right when Forbes magazine listed her as one to watch.
What’s it like behind the scenes at such prestigious and glamorous events? “I’ve done lots of fashion shows over the years, including some in Northern Ireland. But taking part in LFW, was something I’ve always wanted to do. It’s a lot of hard work and not as glamorous behind the scenes.
“We have to get models, arrange their make-up and have everything lined up ready to go. But for me, it all came together and it really was everything I’d dreamed it would be. On the actual day, the atmosphere was buzzing but weirdly, I was quite calm and managed to remain focused.”
During the pandemic, the world practically ground to a halt but now, as society regains a semblance of normality, Riona is ready to showcase her latest collection. “We can’t wait.” she enthuses. “Its very fun and obviously inspired by our move to Ibiza. We plan on doing the Paris showrooms this autumn and will also be showing at Ibiza’s Fashion Week.”
Juggling motherhood with a full-time career can be exhausting. What does she do to relax? “In summer, I try to spend as much time as possible in the sea. It’s where I feel most peace and I love snorkelling; I could spend hours exploring. For me a perfect day would be a long dusty hike followed by a refreshing swim and, at the end of the day, watching the sunset while sharing a glass of wine with friends.”